First you have to find out how your home’s envelope is performing. This will pinpoint where air is leaking and where heat is escaping. You can’t fix a problem until you know where it is. A home energy auditor is the best solution as they come armed with the tools to locate air leaks and heat loss. The blower door test actually is a huge fan that blocks your door and pressurizes the home so that air leaks are easier to spot. Windows and the window trim, electrical outlets, recessed lights, attic door and doors are all big culprits. Having insulation is not enough to stop airflow around the penetrations in the walls and ceiling. You need to use weather stripping and spray foam insulation to stop the air flow. Make sure your recessed light fixtures are rated IC for insulation contact to avoid a fire. The second tool in the auditor’s arsenal is an infrared camera which produces images showing temperature differentials which could be caused by air leakage but more importantly, insufficient insulation or even missing or wet insulation.
Most homes in the US have forced air heating and cooling which circulates the heated and cooled air through ducts. A leak in your duct work is common and if located in the wrong place (wall, ceiling or attic) could be very expensive. Remember, you are trying to have an inside controlled environment so heating and cooling the outdoors through leaks in the ducts and not much different than the kids leaving the door open. Although we have all used duct tape (gray color) to fix a myriad of items, it is not suitable for fixing leaks in your duct work. Aluminum duct tape or caulk is your solution. Hopefully the infrared gun did not locate leaks within walls. If you are getting a new furnace or building a new home, the installation should include sealing all of the duct work. Leaks reduce the pressure and the efficiency of getting the heating and cooling to the end of the runs.
Removing floor, window and ceiling trim will expose critical spots that need to be sealed and even insulated. Spray foam helps to fill the voids from air leaking and insulate the opening. If removing trim is too big of a job or is a risk to breaking the trim, caulk all joints between the trim and between the trim and the wall or floor.
Check your basement for air leaks around pipe and wire penetrations through the wall. The outside sill should be spray foamed or at least 6 inch fiberglass put in place. Wood by itself is not a good insulator and the out rim of the home is usually only 1.5 inches which is an R1.5 versus a normal 2×4 wall being an R13. The higher the R number the lower the heat transfer.
Adding insulation and weather stripping your home will pay big dividends every year in reduced heating and cooling costs. Check with your local utility and home energy auditor about rebates and tax credits.
Now you can sit back and relax in front of your cozy heat sucking fireplace!
An old fireplace uses your heated air as combustion air and sends it right up the chimney outside. As you send the air up the chimney, your furnace is working overtime heating cold air to room temperature. Then you have to leave the flu open while the fire burns out losing more heat. Check with your local fireplace store about options to increase the efficiency of enjoying a nice fire which can include converting to natural gas or installing a firebox insert which can help heat your home and uses outside air for combustion.
With a little bit of work, you can put money in your bank year after year while enjoying your comfortable home environment.
